| 2007-07-26 01:33 |
WS: Tasted from cask, the “two star” 2005 Zeltinger Deutschherrenberg Riesling Auslese** – from a site next to Urziger Wurzgarten with which this was my first acquaintance – marks a change in personality from the wines that went before, for possessing high (9.4 grams) acidity and having been harvested under the influence of noble rot. Aromas of mandarin orange, pineapple, and peach lead to a sweet but ingratiatingly juicy, faintly oily palate impression. The finish here is very long and sweet and colorful in its combination of citrus, pit and tropical fruits, all accented with brown spices and smoky overtones of botrytis. Gaudy this my be, but it is impossible not to be impressed, and Molitor would have us believe that this is a 30-year wine. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling trocken (unknown; 85), 2005 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett trocken (unavailable; 86+?), 2005 Wehlener Klosterberg Riesling Spatlese feinherb (unknown; 84-86), 2005 Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Auslese*** feinherb (unknown; 85-87). Importer: Schmitt Sohne, Millersville, MD; tel. (410) 729-4083 |