| 2008-03-10 10:36 |
WA: 2000 Barbaresco Riserva Paje—Medium translucent red. The Paje presents a deep, complex nose with suggestions of licorice and underbrush. It is a potent and structured Barbaresco, packed with dark fruit, mineral and menthol flavors with superb length and great balance. 90 points/drink after 2008, tasted 05/05 The Produttori del Barbaresco continue to make some of the best-value wines in the zone. Vinification remains traditional and the wines are aged in large casks although the estate has tended to replace its older barrels with slightly smaller 75 hectoliter casks. Managing Director Aldo Vacca says the smaller casks give the wines a bit more roundness without fundamentally sacrificing the house style. Unfortunately this year I can’t recommend the 2002 Barbaresco normale, as I just don’t find enough quality there, especially when consumers can readily find the 1999, 2000 and 2001 vintages. On a more positive note, readers will find much to admire in the quality of the estate’s 2000 Barbaresco Riservas, many of which are excellent to outstanding. The 2000s are much more open and accessible than their 1999 counterparts, which I reported on in Issue 2. With good storage the wines will easily last 15 or more years, although my preference with this estate’s wines and Barbarescos in general, is to drink the wines sooner rather than later. As is typical Rio Sordo, Moccagatta, and Asili are among the most approachable wines, while Rabaja, Montefico and Paje will require some additional patience. Those who believe the 2000 vintage has produced wines that will evolve relatively quickly will find support for that view in the Ovello and Pora bottlings. |