2009-02-23 22:24 |
IWC: By Stephen Tanzer
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, January/February 2008, Issue #136
(Bodega Catena Zapata Chardonnay Catena Alta Adrianna Vineyard Mendoza) ($35; from vineyards at an altitude of nearly 5,000 feet) Pale yellow-gold color. Subdued but pure aromas of stone fruits, herbs, minerals and iodine, with a leesy complexity. Broad and very dry, with the citrussy fruit slow to emerge beneath the veneer of nutty oak. There's a firmness here that reminded me of a very unevolved Burgundy. Best today on the fine-grained, broad finish. Today I prefer the less expensive Catena chardonnay for its glorious and expressive fruit: will this one blossom with time in bottle? 90(+?)? points |
2009-02-23 22:27 |
WA: The 2005 Alta Chardonnay comes from the Adrianna Vineyard at 4850 feet of elevation. It is 100% barrel-fermented using natural yeasts and went through full malolactic fermentation. It was aged sur-lie for 12 months in 60% new French oak. Light to medium gold in color, it has a distinguished aromatic profile of mineral, white flowers, toast, vanilla, apple, and poached pear. This is followed by a medium-bodied, concentrated, layered Chardonnay with flavors of fig and citrus also emerging on the palate. The wine has great balance and should evolve for another 2-3 years. It should age in the manner of a top-level white Burgundy and provide pleasure through 2014.
When all is said and done, Catena Zapata is the Argentina winery of reference – the standard of excellence for comparing all others. The brilliant, forward-thinking Nicolas Catena remains in charge, with his daughter, Laura, playing an increasingly large role. The Catena Zapata winery is an essential destination for fans of both architecture and wine in Mendoza. It is hard to believe, given the surge in popularity of Malbec in recent years, that Catena Zapata only began exporting Malbec to the United States in 1994.
Importer: Billington Imports, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-4700; www.catenawines.com |