| 2009-01-26 10:26 |
WA: The medium ruby-colored 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Laurence already reveals some orange/amber at the edge. This evolved, mature 2004 reveals aromas of forest floor, leafy vegetables, earth, truffles, leather, and kirsch. It is a medium to full-bodied, spicy, impressive wine, but it does not measure up to the 2005 Cuvee Laurence. Drink it over the next 10-15 years.
The inimitable Feraud family, true guardians of the most traditional style of Provence and several Rhone appellations, is increasingly spearheaded by daughter Laurence, but her charismatic father, Paul, is always on the scene, with her mother, running the office. While Pegau’s expanding production should be carefully watched, the talent is certainly there. Forgetting the estate wines, there are three levels of quality and price, including a new Tetra Pak in a liter package that is quite good. There are also the Selection Laurence Feraud, a negociant line of wines, and a second negociant line-up sold under the moniker Feraud-Brunel, which Laurence oversees along with Andre Brunel. 2007 is an undeniably great vintage for the Feraud wines.
Importers: Dan Kravitz, Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (540) 347-9400; Martine’s Wine, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400; and J and R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; tel. (734) 662-3753 |
| 2009-01-26 10:26 |
WS: Really distinctive, with a gutsy, chewy frame supporting clove, blood orange, coffee, brick dust, macerated currant fruit, warm fig and hoisin sauce notes. The long, grippy finish has lots of mesquite, braised chestnut and spice notes. A classic throwback. Best from 2010 through 2030. 500 cases made. –JM |