| 2008-02-26 23:50 |
WA: The 2005 PINTAS is from the talented husband/wife winemaking team of Jorge Serodio Borges and Sandra Tavares da Silva. Pintas means “spots” in Portuguese, referencing wine splatter. This young winery (the tops of the corks are stamped with a number indicating how many vintages they have made of each bottling—this one says “5”) is improving every year, and has the advantage of having recently purchased its 74 year old vineyard. I’ve been having this running debate with Jorge about which is better, the fine 2004 Pintas or this 2005. In the middle of 2006, I thought the ’05, from barrel, was better—and he strongly preferred the ’04. In the middle of 2007, we flip flopped positions. Having loved the second wine, the ’05 “Character,” I was looking forward to retasting this in the USA with some time to play with it, and settle the debate. In short, it has come together brilliantly and shows much better. It is close, but this is likely the best wine yet produced at this young winery, as much, I think, because the winemaking has been steadily improving as the winemakers learn their vineyard, rather than simply being a matter of the vintage itself. This is powerful and focused, intense and gripping, with good concentration in the context of this vintage in the mid-palate. Its aromatics are rather fine, too, as the wine is a pleasure to just smell once it opens up. It is bursting with flavor, reminding me a bit of Vale D. Maria’s Tintos, and rather sexy. It takes a few hours to hit stride, at which point is simply delicious, never thick, but always persistent and lingering. Note that this is not a burly monster or fruit bomb by any means. This is always elegant, combining finesse, power and flavor, not always so easy to do, and it is simply one of the most delicious wines released in the Douro this year. It needs to develop well in the cellar to justify its rating. Given that it was still drinking well on Day 3, I think it will. There were approximately 458 cases made, along with a small number of large format bottles. Drink 2009-2022. Importer: Eric Solomon, Charlotte, N.C.; tel: (704) 358-1565. |